Augustin Teboul is one of the most hyped labels in Berlin’s young design scene. The instant success of their collections of elaborate lace dresses and heavily embellished headwear has been manifested once again last night at their presentation at a gallery in Berlin Mitte. Hundreds came to queue outside in the cold to get a small glimpse of what Annelie Augustin and Odely Teboul came up with for next winter. Of course it’s all black, and of course detailled lace plays a main role in it. Instead of evoking a 1920s melancholia, this season their influences come from all over the world resulting in references based on somewhat Spanish and at the same time East European traditional costume with a heavy impact of graphic forms.

However, melancholia is still one of the most important characters of their work, the installation was shown in a dramatically lit room and accompanied by spherical cello music. The models constantly walked up and down the main stage, slowly turning and gracefully exhibiting the intricate designs. While I’ve always admired their work, this collection was actually the first one I’d be able to tell apart from the others, thanks to the inclusion of graphic forms in their lace. Although this might sound a little weird, I consider this an important step in their work and am excited to see what’s coming next.