Update Papi Crunch is currently on a break. We will keep you updated.
This is the first time an article on this very blog has the word “brunch” in the headline. This might not be a surprise, by now I have voiced my troubles with brunch and/or our lovely city’s breakfast offerings multiple times. However, my complaints were only made to motivate me for a restless search for the perfect morning meal, and you might be happy to hear about a new opportunity to indulge in international breakfast cuisine: Papi Crunch.
Papi Crunch is a Sunday feast celebrating breakfast food at Parker Bowles, the chic restaurant belonging to your favorite burger-club, Prince Charles. Since a couple of months, Lennart Döring and Guillermo Luengas have taken over Sunday’s breakfast menu and filled it with delicious and creative dishes that can be enjoyed between 11:00 and 17:00. However, no queuing necessary, all dishes are served à la carte.
On a particularly grey Sunday, we had the pleasure to enjoy Papi Crunch’s signature brunch dishes influenced by Mexican and US-American cooking: A highlight on their menu are the duck carnitas, a huge portion of duck cured for twelve hours in salt, bay leaves, orange zest, garlic and thyme, then cooked at 75° in goose fat for two hours and after that deep fried for exactly two minutes, to be served on polenta and topped with fresh greens (13,00€). Drooling yet? This one’s followed by The Big Fat Toast, a truly impressive slice of toast with heaps of guacamole and a 64° egg yolk that slowly runs down the sides. You can add either cured salmon or pork tenderloin, also known as lomo, that is flavored with chipotle (cured for a week, air dried for another two weeks, 12,00€, pictured above). The intense colors looked beautiful on the plate, both of these meat dishes were massive and happily enjoyed by my two carnivore companions.
However, I resorted to the vegetarian offerings, starting with a choice of Croquettes, cubes of mashed puree of beetroot, potato, peas and pumpkin freshly deep fried in crunchy batter and served with orange reduction (10,00€). But my personal highlight were certainly the Huevos Rancheros, a dish I heard much about before but have never tried myself. At Papi Crunch, two 64° eggs are served in a bowl topped with ranchero sauce, a spicy tomato-based sauce with chillis, finished with fresh red onions, crunchy roasted corn, fried stripes of tortilla and fresh cilantro (8,00€) – order the extra spicy sauce if you need more. I loved the spiciness with the fresh cilantro, the soft eggs and crispy corn, can’t wait to have it again, it’s quite the picture-perfect comfort food. They’re also serving Huevos Rotos with roasted potatos, with either beet root or chorizo, but I would definitely prefer the Rancheros thanks to their spicy sauce.
We finished our massive brunch with (two) plates of thick banana and walnut pancakes (that can also be ordered with bacon), coming with generous servings of butter and maple syrup (7,00 €), that are best eaten fresh and hot when they just landed on your table. It is very advisable to come with loads of friends, the portions here are big and filling (except the croquettes).
Papi Crunch likes to change its menu, the lomo just joined, as did the duck carnitas, every couple of months. However, it will stay with its mix of Mexican and US-American breakfast food, which is something I very much appreciate.
There’s only one thing missing, an essential thing, though. There are no cocktails… yet! Lennart promised me they are working on several options for the summer (when you’ll be enjoying your brunch outside), not only are they planning on classics like the Bloody Mary, but rather a Mexican drink called Michelada, made with beer, lime juice, and assorted sauces, spices, and peppers. And sometimes served in chilli-rimmed glasses.