I seriously love how the art of brunch is evolving in Berlin – more and more spots embrace this culinary and social highlight of the week and offer elaborate menus. (The only thing missing is (still) cocktails for a beautiful day time drinking experience… but I heard some are working on that). However, the delicious brunch menu I am going to present to you now was a one-time event by two very talented young chefs from the Netherlands spreading their food love on various occasions in this city. This time, Lode & Stijn took over Silo to create a brunch that I wish was always available.
Lode van Zuylen and Stijn Remi met during their chef’s training and now came together in Berlin to open their own restaurant very soon – and before that happens, they offer their delicate cooking in various spots. On the past Easter monday they took over Friedrichshain favorite Silo, which is already known to be a very recommendable breakfast destination. Lode & Stijn took it to another level with their elaborate creations that focussed on highlighting a certain produce.
We started with a cheese plate of old and young Dutch served with their own sprouted rye bread (Lode is also a baker at beloved Sironi), home made apple butter and some excellent cappuccino in Silo’s signature vibrant red cups. We obviously went for the family style brunch menu to enjoy all the variations of brunch Lode & Stijn offered that day and also avoiding any decision (20 Euro / person). First a buttermilk and cucumber dish was served, for my friends with salmon, for me with slightly charred salad, that was garnished generously with dill (photo on top) and made a very refreshing start, opening our palates for what was to come.
Which was a raw potato salad with smoked trout and blutwurst for my friends, and super thinly sliced radish and cauliflower for me – topped with a heap of beautifully twined wild cress with shaved oats and hazelnuts. A wonderful combination of flavors and textures, fresh cress, crunchy radish and soft splashes of oil.
Obviously, serving fresh and local produce is of big importance to their cooking, and while some chefs struggle to create interesting dishes of what’s available in Berlin during the early spring, Lode & Stijn don’t have any problem handling those roots and cabbages.
While my friends enjoyed Georgian lamb stew with flat bread (baked with lard), I tried the onion broth with a poached egg and mushrooms. Everything is served to share, not only to taste as much as possible, but because brunch is a social event where dishes are daintiest when shared.
Many guests came in big parties, creating a buzzing atmosphere in the rather small place (with long lines out the door of people waiting to catch a table). This importance of sharing a meal with friends will be a focus of their planned restaurants, which will most likely only have about 30 seats and a menu featuring many sharing dishes.
Completing our brunch were two sweet dishes, a rhubarb cobbler with oat cream and a delightful sheep yoghurt with rosehip and nutty crumble. While most of the dishes sound so simple, they are surprisingly complex and plated with a distinct focus on the natural beauty of produce and ingredients.
While this brunch might not be available for you to enjoy next weekend, I am keeping my fingers crossed for a breakfast menu at Lode & Stijn’s upcoming restaurant. Until then, I suggest you sign up to their mailing list to catch a spot at their next pop-up dinner, because these guys are seriously gifted in the kitchen.