When reading about Martha’s in Schöneberg, one thing seems inevitable: the Blutwurstbrot, homemade bread with chunks of what is known as black pudding in British English and Boudin in French – blood sausage. I skipped that, went for vegetarian only and still had an enjoyable dinner. But you should probably try it…
Opened just last year by architect Ulf Bohne and named after his daughter, this restaurant in the heart of Schöneberg quickly made it into the papers with its very young head chef Manuel Schmuck, who has been cooking at one of Berlin’s rare two-star-decorated restaurants, Reinstoff.
Martha’s features a German menu that is influenced by many international favorites, chef Schmuck likes to combine down-to-earth with refinement, German produce with Asian cooking methods. He puts Brandenburg venison with Miso and Bavarian yeast dumplings on a plate, or serves cod in tempura with nori-remoulade. The dinner menu is not long, but changing often-times according to seasons and local availabilities.
I went for the vegetarian options, obviously. My starter dish, an avocado (the veggie surrogate for trout) in combination with salicornia sea beans, cucumber, lentils and sage vinaigrette was okay – the avocado wasn’t ripe, but I did love the salty salicornia combo with cucumbers and vanilla mayonnaise. My main dish stared the beautiful baked sweet potato seen on the picture, garnished with a red wine ragout of mushrooms, a hidden Burrata, sun flower seed vinaigrette and edible paper with mint, served on a tin plate normally reserved for smoked meat dishes.
Martha’s is going for a refined version of a German Bodenständigkeit, the menu also featured a homemade Leberkäse sandwich with a caraway vinaigrette, or a lamb from Müritz with hummus, safran, guacamole and papadam. It’s definitely a great place to bring your parents or other visiting friends, whether they’re from Germany or not, to experience German food and how interesting and inspiring it can be.