Update, June 2016: while guest chefs will continue all summer, the regular dinner service is on a break and will restart in Autumn.
You remember that giant mountain of rhubarb pavlova served at the 10th birthday of stilinberlin? I couldn’t forget it, dreamed about it, even. So when I came back to enjoy one of the first evening services of The Store Kitchen, I was over the moon to meet this glorious dessert again.
I’ve swooned over The Store Kitchen and what they do again, and again (and again, and, why yes, again), but you’ll have to sit through another round, because after starting with breakfast and lunch service, Johnnie Collins and Tommy Tannock opened their space now for the evening. My biggest delight is that, most of the times, I have to google loads of the items on their menus – which means I learn a lot every time. This evening, those would be Sobrassada – a Mallorquin sausage, Mizuna – Japanese “water greens”, and obviously the many cheeses: Beenleigh Blue, Strachitunt, Brillat-Savarin and Crottin de Chavignol. Their food knowledge is endless, and I enjoy them touring the world’s most interesting ingredients, while still maintaining a focus on what is locally available and closely working with farmers to source the best. Like the wild garlic for the omelette, the beet root baked in salt, or the beef cheek served with rainbow chard, that my company enjoyed fully.
I just like their approach to food – the main ingredients shine on their own, supported by finishing touches that are inspired by cooking from all around the world. It’s simple, yet always surprising.
We started with a Negroni and a cheese board (12 Euro) and then had the charred leaks, normally served with Sobrassada, on their own (9 Euro). Followed by my highlight – aubergine (I love all things aubergine) with Chinese cabbage, miso and stripes of nori (14 Euro). A divine combination of creamy aubergine and savory miso flavors, that I ate completely, although I already had the lentil filled samosas served with coriander chutney (9 Euro). Usually, the taste of lentil filled and then fried anything gets lost in the mushy texture. Not here, of course, the combination of earthy lentils and spicy coriander was deliciously intense.
And then the desserts, we had both of them, naturally, just that I forgot to picture the bufallo ricotta ice cream with honeycomb because i focussed on the rhubarb eton mess / pavlova. Which is having a come-back at this week’s dinner service!
The Store Kitchen is open for dinner service Thursday to Saturday till late.
Disclaimer: Me and my guest were invited, free of charge, to this dinner by The Store Kitchen.