I finally went to Lode & Stijn, halleluja! I was so excited to go all the time and still it took me too many weeks, and I don’t even have a reason for that. And then I wanted to write about it instantly but went to Japan for two weeks and now I’m back and looking at the pictures and wanna go again right now. So without further explanations, let’s get to the food…
You might remember Lode from his role as super strict juror on our yearly Berlin’s Best Bread competition. And Lode & Stijn as the chef duo behind this amazing brunch at Silo. Their long planned restaurant serving seasonal and local four our six courses menus, has finally opened in a street off the canal in Kreuzberg and it’s so lovely to see how their work turned out.
What can I say, I loved it. The little plates to share upfront – white beans, leek and egg yolk; panelle; and asparagus with buttermilk sauce – where almost my favorite, if it wasn’t for the fresh goats cheese mousse with that surprisingly intense carrot vinaigrette that went so very well with the crunchy almonds and fruity basil (pictured on top). The cheese is from Gut Ogrosen in Spreewald, and while they normally don’t name their sources, in this cases the dish benefits so much from this cheese, it’d be a shame not to, as Lode said.
I heard many praises of the beef tartar, however and although their menu reads very meat-heavy, you can easily switch all of them for a full vegetarian dinner, as I did. And enjoy things like roasted beetroots with jerusalem artichoke puree, hidden beneath wild rucola, sprinkled with the right amount of brown butter and those intense Piedmontese hazelnuts.
Besides their nice location in this still quiet side street, the place itself has a distinct casual and relaxed atmosphere. While the food is certainly inventive, high-class and very contemporary, the mood is informal and down to earth, a still unusual concept in Berlin, but I expected nothing less from either Lode or Stijn. This is very much their place, and I’m excited to see in what directions they can develop their cooking with this as their home base.
Also, you can take one of their delicious breads home for later!
Four courses are 48 Euro, six are 68 Euro.