Eats in Berlin: Strudel & Kohl

A piece of Apfelstrudel on a bed of vanilla sauce on a plate on a marble table at Einstein Stammhaus in Berlin

Hey everyone! How was your week? Did you see the cringy instagram story of the local police looking for a woman who asked for directions in Kreuzberg? The officer she approached was head over heals because she “gifted him a smile”, so our law enforcement thought it’d be appropriate to post a wanted ad on their official channel, to show off their “human side”, as their social media officer put it. In better news, Berlin has a new public holiday! We live in one of the states with the least number of official days off, so we got some remedy – they chose March 8th, women’s day, and it’s already starting this year! Let’s hope this doesn’t just mean free roses for the ladies but also political activism and engagement. In other news, I’ve been eating some brunch, some soup and some very fine dining this week.

A bowl of soup with noodles, tofu and coriander on a table with a panda figure and a cup of tea next to it at Liu Chinese Noodle restaurant in Berlin

Liu 成都味道

I went back already, yes of course. As I said last time, I wanted to try the Sauerkraut noodles and so here they are, protected by the friendly panda napkin dispenser and an adjacent, rather unreasonable plastic cup of cold green tea (the only way they serve it). This time, I ordered the extra scharf version, marked by 3 chilis on the menu, yet, it really wasn’t that spicy, so I added more chili oil. The broth was nice though, I liked the sour of the kraut with the hearty broth. The noodles still aren’t my fave, but it’s a good dish I wanna eat again.

Kronenstraße 72

10117 Berlin Mitte

Daily 11:30 – 15:00

A dark plate with eggs, potatocakes, root vegetables and sauce on a table filled with breakfast items at 19gram Chaussee in Berlin

19grams Chaussee

Going for breakfast on a Sunday in Mitte is kinda tough… Many places aren’t even open, most of the ones that are, aren’t great (exception: Commonground!), and everything’s crowded. Here’s another good one, though: 19grams Chaussee is almost in Wedding, also crowded, but has good food and really good staff. Really, one of the best serving experiences I had in Berlin. All of them are super friendly, quick and helpful (like, when somehow your table falls over and all your coffee pours over their leather chairs…) And it appears to be absolutely genuine! Such unusual in Berlin, it deserves a repeated mention: good job, team! Now, to the food – I had potato chive cakes with poached egg and roasted roots (winter, still…) and hollandaise, of which there should’ve been much more on the plate, even though the drizzle is very picturesque, isn’t it? It’s solid brunch, they also serve really good coffee and have some yummy cakes.

Chausseestrasse 36

10115 Berlin Mitte

Mon–Fri 08:00 - 18:00,
Sat–Sun 10:00 - 18:00

A piece of carrot cake with two layers of frosting on a white plate on a brass table at Kaffee 9 in Kreuzberg

Albatross at Kaffee Neun

Albatross, the bakery in Graefestraße, is slowly taking over the whole city. Seems increasingly difficult to find another than slices of their signature semolina covered loaf around. But I’m certainly not mad about that. Here’s a rather new addition to their bakes portfolio: carrot cake. I enjoyed it last Sunday at Kaffee 9, followed by a Bloody Mary because it was really cold outside. The cake is juicy and carrotty and the frosting isn’t too sweet. It’s good, however, Aunt Benny’s is still my fav carrot cake in the city.

Eisenbahnstraße 42/43

10997 Berlin Kreuzberg

Mon–Sat 07:30–18:00,
Sun 10:00–18:00

A beige colored bowl filled with a piece of cabbage, portobello mushrooms and a broth with chives on a wooden table at Baldon in Berlin

Fogo Island Inn x Baldon

Chef Jonathan Gushue usually works far, far away from Berlin, on an island off Newfoundland at the northern edge of Canada. Fogo Island Inn looks stunning in pictures, and the stories told that night made me seriously consider taking the long journey there. Gushue came to Berlin to show off his foodways at Baldon, the spacious new restaurant inside of very concrete Lobeblock around the corner from Gesundbrunnen. With an emphasis on cod, which is available in abundance on Fogo Island thanks to some convenient streams, the menu was straightforward yet elaborate. My plates were filled with many roots, one of the courses served as a reminder to me to eat more of that delicious salsify (if it wasn’t such a mess to prepare). The photo shows a grilled cabbage (delicious!) and a portobello mushroom in cabbage broth that was my favourite of the night. It showed off earthiness and the freshness of the cabbage in a such a simple yet striking way. The dinner happened in cooperation with Terroir Hospitality and Bon Bock, and I was generously invited to join.
So I still can’t say more about Baldon except that it’s a stunning location, but I’ll be back for brunch soon.
Böttgerstraße 16, 13357 Berlin

A white plate with a folded omelette topped with arugula on a marble table at Einstein Stammhaus in Berlin

Einstein Stammhaus

Funny coincidence, I’ve been here twice in the past week. Once for coffee and Apfelstrudel (picture on top), and once for coffee and cheese and mushroom omelette (pictured here). Both times because my knowledge of this part of town is rather limited and I couldn’t come up with a nicer place during day time. Albeit totally usual in cities like Vienna and Paris, a classic space like this is a bit of an oddity in Berlin. Located in a boujee 19th century mansion, the inside wasn’t as opulent as I remembered but still Kaffeehaus enough (with waiters dressed in formal black and white) that I’d come back any time to enjoy some proper service and dishes. The food is alright, the strudel is good, the omelette a bit blah, and the coffee not that great (better than at their namesake coffee chain, with which the Stammhaus has nothing to do – any more). But, it’s a good spot to do some people-watching, and time passes here easily. It’s even more of a stunner in the summer, when the garden is open.

Kurfürstenstraße 58

10785 Berlin Tiergarten

Mon–Sun 08:00–24:00


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