Another three days in Paris means three days of feasting, walking, and endless enjoying. Only coming for a visit makes it much easier for me to relish the city’s offerings – wandering from boulangerie to patisserie to bistro without caring about their housing crisis, traffic crisis, or politics crisis. Or about the fact that I still haven’t been inside the Louvre! What bothers me even more is that I also didn’t make it to the many places on my list in the 11th arrondissement, limiting my ways to the 1st and surroundings with occasional trips to the Marais and the 9th, like a real tourist. Well, there’s always a next time for Paris, right?
Here’s what I ate this time, quite different from my last visit in May. Gonna be back soon, let me know your tips and tricks in the comments.
I had never explored the many Japanese options in the 1st arrondissement and was excited to start with this French Japanese bakery that has some very good Melonpan (literally “melon bread”, but just because of the looks of the soft white bun with a thin, crispy cookie layer on top), matcha filled choux buns, bento boxes and more.
16 Rue Sainte-Anne, 75001 Paris, Mon–Sat 7:30-20:30
Carré Pain de Mie
When I posted this on in my Instagram stories, I got some heat in my DMs for featuring “pain de mie”, which means soft bread but also refers to “supermarket bread”, pre-sliced and packed. Most of the “critics” were just too lazy to click the location tag to find out that this one is carefully crafting “shokupan”, a Japanese white bread so fluffy, it reminds me of a cloud or a very comfy pillow. It comes with a golden crust and super soft crumb and is excellent for making sandwiches or French toast. I got my sandwich with potato salad, another classic Japanese option that is rare in Berlin, and I was so happy about it, I even finished the crust that is served on the side. Can’t wait to go back and try their sweet options. There are lines, and it’s quite pricey, a loaf to take home is 8 Euro (which I did and it kept for at least a week), and the service is slow, but meticulous. Certainly one of my fav experiences in Paris.
5 Rue Rambuteau, 75004 Paris, daily 10:00–19:00
We spontaneously had dinner here, it’s one of many good Japanese eateries in this area. I was delighted to find a noodle dish with sauce on the side, something I have not found in Berlin (yet?), which means you get your Udon (and toppings) with a little pot of sauce you splash onto your noodles to your liking. This broth is way more intense and makes the dish less of a soup. Sanukiya was packed and usually has a line out the door, we arrived around a quarter to nine with only 15mins till the kitchen closed and didn’t need to wait long.
9 Rue d’Argenteuil, 75001 Paris, daily 11:30–22:00
This is a Franco-Japanese patisserie famous for its dorayaki, two small pancakes filled with azuki bean paste (or more unconventional twists) that are an excellent pick-me-up after too much walking on a rainy day, I’ve tested that. They also have a delightful whisky baba and other small cakes to take home or have in their (often crowded) tea room in the back.
11 Rue Chabanais, 75002 Paris, daily 12:00–19:00
This was my absolute favorite place this time in Paris. It just opened beginning of the year so the service as well as interior are certainly a bit rough around the edges – but the product! They had different babkas when we went, and a small rugelach and I rarely say this but OMG! Perfectly baked, with enough yeast flavor still coming through without it being mushy, sweet but also not too much, excellent flavours and textures. I told everyone I saw about this place and urged them to go asap. Pictured is a chocolate babka and a tahini lemon babka and both were excellent. Same with the rugelachs. It’s one of those cases where it’s so delicious, you’ll be lost for words. Definitely take some more for later. And if there’s a queue: do queue.
65 Rue Condorcet, 75009 Paris, Wed–Sat 08:00–18:00, Sun 08:00–14:00
We went to bakery Mamiche straight after visiting Babka Zana, and then later accidentally dropped their pain perdu on the street after one bite (a very good bite, indeed). However, it is still 100% recommendable and great and all that, but if you just had the Babka, it will not compete.
45 Rue Condorcet, 75009 Paris, Tue–Sat 08:00–20:00
Of course Paris has a super chic bubble tea place. And it’s super good as well. Their wooden bar-kiosk with integrated outlets for different tea is built into a classic Parisian shopfronts. It looks like these elegant interiors on the pages of T Magazine. The tea is very elegant as well, not as sweet as you might expect and with the tea flavors being more present. I will make sure I go again next time I’m in Paris.
19 Rue de Montmorency, 75003 Paris, daily 12:00–22:00
This Taiwanese place usually has such long lines, you might not bother to queue, even though I will tell you it’s worth it. So here’s an old trick: We arrived shortly before them opening at 12 on a Sunday and were the first ones in. The interior is very “now”, with square white tiles, bold wall colors, steel shelves and plants. We got several dumplings and an aubergine dish from a menu which is small enough to not get lost, and big enough to order a little too much (as one wants, on a Sunday). Everything was delicious, the lines make total sense and yes, I would queue.
116 Rue Saint-Denis, 75002 Paris, Mon–Thu 12:00–15:00 & 19:00–23:00, Fri 12:00–15:00 & 19:00–23:30, Sat 12:00–23:30, Sun 12:00–23:00